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JK Front Driveshaft Install Instructions.

The following are the tools and products you will need to install the driveshaft.

Tools: These are the tools we use for the install. We listed a couple of different tools that can be used to loosen or tighten the same bolts just in case you do not have some of them. Example [ You could use the metric 15 wrench to tighten the front bolts on the flange, or the metric 15 impact socket]

1/2″ Drive Impact, 3/8″ Drive Impact, Medium size Ball Pein Hammer, Medium Size Rubber Malet, 5/16 12 point end wrench, Metric 15 End Wrench, 1 1/4″ Impact Socket, 3/8″ Metric 15 Impact socket, 1/2″ Drive Extentions, and 3/8″ Drive Extensions.

Products: Locktight, Black Silicone, WD-40, and Brake Cleaner.


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The Pictures below show you the OEM Driveshaft and Yoke that you will be replacing.

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You will be installing the parts you see in the picture below. Adams Driveshaft’s Rock Crawler 1310 CV Driveshaft, 1310 T-case yoke, and four 5/16″ 12 Point Head Grade 10 CV Bolts.

Note: The Silicone and Locktight does not come with the driveshaft. It is only pictured to show you the importance of using these so you will not have a leak, or a bolt come loose.

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Thanks to Becki Ortiz for letting us use her 4 Door JK for the install.

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First you will need to take out the old OEM Driveshaft by using your metric 15 end wrench or using an impact with a metric 15 socket on it. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the bolts to help you remove them if they are rusted.

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Using your rubber mallet or a medium ball pein hammer, tap the OEM flange on the side like the picture shows to remove the flange off of the front pinion yoke.

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Next you will need to take out the other side of the OEM driveshaft by using your 5/16″ 12 point end wrench or an impact with a 5/16″ 12 point socket on it.

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With the 1/2″ impact and the 1 1/4″ socket, take off the nut in the center of the transfer case.

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With your medium ball pein hammer, tap off the front T-case yoke. There is a thick o-ring in the center of the yoke that you will need to re-use.

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Take the o-ring out of the old yoke and insert it into the new T-case yoke that came with the driveshaft like the picture below shows.

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Install the new front T-case yoke on the splines and then tap it on with a medium ball pein hammer, or Rubber Mallet until there are enough threads to start the nut.

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Put black silicone on the washer of the nut like shown below and put some red Locktight on the threads of the nut.

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With the impact and the 1 1/4″ socket, tighten the nut down until it stops. With a torque wrench, tighten the nut to 160 ft lbs of torque. If the nut is not tight enough you could have some vibration. We called the sealer and they said the nut should be torqued down between 120 to 200 ft lbs. We have found that at 160 ft lbs there is no movement.

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Put some red Locktight on the four 5 /16″ head bolts that came with the driveshaft package.

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Insert the CV side of the driveshaft into the yoke and screw the bolts in the back side of the yoke like the picture below shows you. Tighten the bolts using your 5/16″ 12 point end wrench. There is no torque spec for these bolts so make sure to use plenty of Locktight.

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Next put Locktight on the four factory metric 15 head bolts.

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With your impact and metric 15 socket, tighten down the four bolts until tight. Using a torque wrench, tighten these bolts down between 35 to 45 ft lbs of torque. We torque these down when the Jeep is on the ground. The picture below just shows you how.

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You now have installed a new Adams Driveshaft Rock Crawler 1310 CV Driveshaft. This is one of the strongest driveshafts and is made with the best components possible by Spicer and Neapco.

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Big thanks goes out to James Adams of Adams Driveshafts for letting us re-post this on our blog. Click here to see the original post. To learn more about Adams Driveshafts, check out our offerings at this link. http://www.northridge4x4.com/adams_driveshaft

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Jk Rear Driveshaft Install Instructions.

The following are the tools and products you will need to install the Driveshaft.

Tools: These are the tools we use for the install. We listed a couple of different tools that can be used to loosen, tighten, or take off the yoke, and bolts just in case you do not have some of them. Example [ You could use the Ball Pein Hammer or the Yoke Puller.]

1/2″ impact, medium size ball pein hammer, 1/2″ end wrench, 5/6 12 point end wrench, 1 1/4″ impact socket, 1 5/16″ thin wall impact socket, yoke puller is optional.

Products:

Locktight, Black Silicone, WD-40, and Brake Clean.

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These are the parts you will be replacing. The picture below shows you the old OEM driveshaft and yokes.

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You will be Installing the parts you see in the picture below. Adams Driveshaft Rock Crawler 1310 CV Driveshaft, Dana 44 Pinion Yoke, T-case CV Yoke, 1310 U-bolts, and Four 5/16 12 point Head Grade 10 CV Bolts.

Note: The silicone and Locktight does not come with the driveshaft it is only pictured to show the importance of using these so you will not have a leak, or a bolt come loose.

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Thanks to Eddie Ortiz for donating his 2 Door JK for the install.

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First you will need to take out the old OEM driveshaft by using your 5/16 12 point end wrench. The OEM driveshaft uses the same bolts front and rear. You may need to spray some WD-40 on the bolts and yokes to help you remove them if they are rusted.

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Next you will need your Impact and the 1 5/16″ thin wall socket to remove the Dana 44 pinion nut.

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Using the medium ball pein hammer lightly tap on the back side of the pinion yoke in order to remove it. Depending on how hard the yoke comes off or mileage you may need to replace the pinion seal at the same time as you install the new yoke.

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You could also use a yoke puller instead of a hammer if you have one handy.

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Lightly tap the new dana 44 pinion yoke on the rear differential with your medium size ball pein hammer like the picture below shows being careful not to hit the threads or the splines.

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Install the black silicone on the bottom side of the pinion washer like the two pictures below and install the washer on the pinion with the silicone facing towards the differential.

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After installing the washer, apply red Locktight to the inside of the pinion nut and thread it on the pinion threads.

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With the Impact gun, tighten down the pinion nut until the socket comes to a stop.

NOTE: DO NOT KEEP TIGHTENING THE PINION NUT AFTER THE SOCKET HAS STOP. If you keep tightening the nut you will over crush the crush sleeve and the pinion bearings will burn up.

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Check to make sure that there is no play in or out or up and down on the pinion yoke. If there is some play then the yoke has not been tightened down to the crush sleeve yet. Continue tightening until there is no movement in the yoke in or out or up and down.

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Now it is time to change the transfer case yoke by using the impact and 1 1/4″ impact socket.

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Take your hammer and tap off the T-case yoke. You could also use the yoke puller if you have one.

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Notice that in the old T-case yoke there is a thick O-ring, take out this O-ring like the picture shows below so you can install it in the new T-case yoke.

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Install the O-ring that you took off the old yoke into the new yoke before you put the yoke on the T-case.

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Put some black silicone on the back side of the nut like the picture shows below.

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Put red Locktight on the threads like the picture below shows.

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Tighten the transfer case yoke until socket stops. We called and talked to four different Jeep dealerships and they all recommended that the torque Settings to be between 120 to 190 foot pounds. We set ours to 160 FT Pounds.

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Install red Locktight on the cv bolts like the picture shows below.

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The cv bolts are installed through the back of the yoke and threads into the cv kit. You will need your 5/16″ 12 point open end wrench for these bolts.

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Remove the black tape off of the rear u-joint. Be carefull not to drop the cap off the u-joint.

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Install the rear u-joint into the pinion yoke making sure that both u-joint caps are sitting between the tabs on the yoke like the picture below. Take your 1/2″ open end wrench and tighen down the u-bolts. Make sure that when you are tightening down the u-bolts that you tighten them down even. Tighten the nut down until it feels snug then go a 1/4″ of a turn and thats tight enough. The lock washer will hold the nut tight.

Note: If you over tighten the u-bolts or tighten them uneven, then the u-joint will fail and could cause the driveshaft to come out.

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You now have installed a new Adams Driveshaft Rock Crawler 1310 Solid Spicer 1310 CV Driveshaft. This is one of the strongest driveshafts and made with the best components possible by Spicer and Neapco.

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Big thanks goes out to James Adams of Adams Driveshafts for letting us re-post this on our blog. Click here to see the original post. To learn more about Adams Driveshafts, check out our offerings at this link. http://www.northridge4x4.com/adams_driveshaft

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51638Check out this quick run down of how to install a Rock Smasher 2Way Air kit on a 2014 2 Door Jeep JK Rubicon equipped with a Twin ARB air compressor mounted on a M.O.R.E mounting bracket. We’re also working with a Genesis Offroad Dual battery system with two yellow top Optima batteries. For tires, this JK is rocking Nitto 35X12.5X17 Trail Grapplers. Installation time is about 3 1/2 hours.

 

 

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Planning:
1. Lay out parts to verify against system drawing.
NOTE: System drawing with kit doesn’t indicate 3/8 tubing between “M” & “N” fittings.

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2. After Mock-up ( pictured above) a decision of splitting the air system to front to back instead of left and right facilitates running of one 3/8″ line to the rear instead of two 1/4″ lines.
NOTE: Kit does not have sufficient amount of 3/8 air line for configuration outlined in this instruction.

3. Procured additional 11′ of 3/8 air brake line. Four 5/16 stainless flat washers.

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The Build:
a. Flatten out the main control valve mount.

b. Build the air system valve assembly in accordance with drawing or to your application needs. Then attach to main control valve mount.

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c. Route 3/8″ line approx 11 feet from the engine compartment air compressor area along outside the drivers side frame attaching to the underside of body with provided clamps and screws. Ending the 3/8″ line at the center of the rear crossmember just forward of the rear axle and install fitting “N” to crossmember.

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NOTE: Keep air line clear from exhaust system.

d. Mark and drill two 5/16 holes into the M.O.R.E mount. Mount control valve mount assembly to the M.O.R.E air compressor mount.
NOTE: This is a good time to install the 3/8″ line installed in step c to fitting “M” on valve assembly.

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e. Rear tire connection points: Utilizing existing holes drilled into body. Remove the inner fender well plastic retainer. Use a 5/16 drill enlarge the hole. Install fitting “E” to Fitting.

“F”. Cut 1/4″ tubing to length. Route 1/4″ tubing from fitting “N” and install into fitting.

“E”. Then install fitting’s “E & F Fittings into the enlarged mounting hole. Install flat washer and nut.

NOTE: This step is a little more difficult on passenger side due to fuel tank but with a little patience it can be done.

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f. Front tire connection points: At the front body mounts located in the front of wheel well. Drill 5/16″ hole. From fitting “N” located near the engine ECM area. Route 1/4″ air line to each body mount area.

NOTE: There is multiple options for air line routing here. For this application both lines are routed along the fender then down to the driver side body mount. The route for the passenger side went along the front crossmember to the passenger mount. Just like the rear install fitting “E” into Fitting “F”.

Install fitting on to 1/4″ line. Then install through drilled hole install flat washer and nut.

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g. Tire Pressure Set Point Valve (TPSV) mounting location is in drivers fender utilizing existing fastener holding ground cables to the body. This location its placed close to the compressor controls Run the 1/4″ line from the 1/4″ OD tee fitting “D” to the TPSV.

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h. Build 4 tire connection whip hoses. Install fitting #2 into #3. Rotate tires to set the tire air fill valve to the furthest point from the air connection on the jeep. Measure and cut to length the colored 1/4″ tubing and install tubing into fittings.

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System Integrity Test:

a. Remove (TPSV) valve and plug.
b. Install air source either shop air or from compressor on vehicle.
c. open supply air valve to pressurize system.
d. listen for air leaks or use soapy water check all joints for leaks.
e. After testing replace (TPSV) valve. Valve setting for this application was set to 35 PS

Operation:

a. Install all whip hoses
b. Open manual control valve venting air to atmosphere.
c. Close the valve periodically to check air pressure at the fitting “F” on control mount.

NOTE: If your vehicle is equipped with TPMS, turn key on toggle menu to display TPMS and observe tire pressures. Close the main control valve when you reach the desired tire pressure.

NOTE: When opening manual control valve to fill tires the (TPSV) will lift momentarily.

System operation / performance data:

Airing down:

Pressure drop between PSI increments listed took 60 seconds.
35 to 30
30 to 25
25 to 20
20 to 15
15 to 10

This test was repeated with duplicated results. Over all time from 35 to 10 PSI took 4 minutes 41 seconds

Airing up: (vehicle compressor)

ARB Twin Compressor. Conditions – Engine running, Dual batteries are paralleled / boost on.

Pressure between PSI increments listed took approximate 1:30.
10 to 15
15 to 20
20 to 25
25 to 30
30 to 35

Total time between 10 to 35 PSI took 6 minutes 30 seconds. This testwas repeated with duplicated results.

Airing up: (Shop air 125 PSI 80 gallon tank reduced to 35 PSI)

This test was conducted to illustrate how fast tires will fill from 10 to 35 PSI using high volume low pressure supply. total time 10 to 35 PSI took approximately 3 minutes.

Conclusion:

After using the system before and after 4 wheeling it drastically cut down my time dealing with airing down and up my tires. There’s far less bending and kneeling constantly checking tire pressures. I monitored the pressure using the vehicle TPMS system backed up by checking pressure at fitting “F” on the main control mount.

This guidance procedure was written and installed by: Jeff Williams & Randy Smith

NOTE: This written and illustrated procedure is for guidance only. Every vehicle is different, every owner will have specific needs for their system.

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Here’s our latest video where Malo shows you how easy it is to install a Putco Premium Interior Dome Light Kit. Don’t worry, outtakes are included. 🙂

Click here to learn more and order yours today!

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Here’s a quick and dirty tutorial on how to change the oil filter in your 2012-2014 JK. We’re not going to go into changing your oil this time around. We’ll save that for another post. =]

First, locate the oil filter cap. We know this first step may seem a little silly but completing the next step is pretty tough if you don’t know where the cap is.
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There you are you little rascal.
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Next, use a wrench to loosen the cap. We used a socket wrench for this but you can use whatever you have.
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Using your hand, unscrew the cap all the way till you can pull out the oil filter.
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Look how dirty the old one is!
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Now, grab your new filter. We used an aFe Pro-GUARD D2 Oil Filter. We just happen to be running a sale on them! You get a year’s supply plus and aFe Air Filter for the low price of $97.95.
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Simply replace the old one with the new one. TIP: Don’t forget to replace the rubber o-ring too. Add a little oil to it with your fingers to ensure you get a good seal.
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All that’s left to do is put the new filter back…
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… and then tighten the filter cap. Make sure not to over tighten it.
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Snap back the engine cover and you’re all set! Now go wash your hands.
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